Finally!

After weeks of waiting and whining, we finally got a little snow. For the last three or four days, my morning walk to school has been a little crunchier, a little whiter, and I'm loving it! Even the lake and river are showing signs of freeze-up. Maybe fall ice fishing will commence on time after all.

Another long-awaited event (at least for me) occurred just last night. The clouds finally parted momentarily and I was able to catch a brief glimpse of Jupiter and its moons! I wasn't sure I'd be able to see anything. I don't have a powerful telescope at my disposal, but I do have some nifty (and gargantuan) binoculars.



Jupiter was easy enough to see with the naked eye, but I could only see the moons through my binoculars and (surprisingly) through my camera.

Catching sight of this very cool cluster made the cold legs and frozen fingers completely worth it!

Wind	from the WSW (250 degrees) at 13 MPH (11 KT)
Visibility	10 mile(s)
Sky conditions	mostly clear
Temperature	19.0 F (-7.2 C)
Windchill	6 F (-14 C)
Dew Point	17.1 F (-8.3 C)
Relative Humidity	91%

I know this is not impressive photography. I wasn't really expecting to get great pictures, but I thought it couldn't hurt to try.

I had no tripod and just set my Sony DSC-H50 on ISO. I know there are probably settings that I could have used to get better photos, but I am admitting complete ignorance here. I have not read my owner's manual and have not experimented with settings much.

And still, my little camera does the best it can do under the circumstances. (Great little camera that it is).

This was the best shot I could get without a tripod (I held my breath a lot).



And this is a cropped view of the same shot. It's not pretty, I know, but it (not-so-clearly) shows Jupiter with two moons on the right and one on the far left. I think I saw three moons on the right through my binos, but I can't be completely sure because...well...I'm fairly ignorant of astronomy too.



I'm still happy. I saw Jupiter...and it's moons....more than I've ever seen before.

And there's fresh snow on the ground!

Life is good.

Wet

Even today, a glorious, blue-sky morning bursting with sunshine and windswept clouds tinged pink and gold, the first morning in over a month possessing the faintest hint of fall, even today the air is thick and heavy and wet.



It is yet another in a long string of days laden with the bane of my existence, one hundred percent humidity. As I walk to school each morning, I feel the oppressive weight of it as I breathe in and out. It clings to my skin and clothes and every other available surface. I won’t even mention what a snarling tangle it makes of my hair.





There should be frost on the berries, but instead they’re just wet, wet, wet. Everything is wet and dripping and has been for weeks. September usually brings our first substantial snowfall. Sometimes it melts away, but more often it remains, white powder piled up on fresh sheaths of ice skinning the surfaces of ponds and lakes and eventually the river...just the way I like it.



I know this isn’t much to complain about while Southern regions are still scorching (and plenty humid as well), but…this just isn’t right. It’s not the Arctic autumn that I know and love.

Students have been asking, “Man, when’s it ever gonna get cold?”

I shrug sympathetically and admit that I’m wondering the same thing. I remind them that break-up came late this year, that the river ice didn’t go out until the middle of June and most of the summer was cloudy and cold. August brought lots of rain ensuring muddy boots and juicy berries. The seasons seem to have shifted a bit, abandoning the predictable timing of things that some of us so obviously crave.



September’s chill usually brings dryness. Humidity, trapped as frost or snow, crunches underfoot and leaves the air so fresh and crisp that it seems to snap. It’s something I look forward to—a lot. This year is just different. For now, first frost is still an elusive prospect as we wade through day after day of thick humid air...



...and more wet.

Recipe for a Flaky Crust

Temperatures have dropped back into the normal range for this time of year. I checked the airport website a few minutes ago...

Temperature -36 F (-38 C)
Windchill -56 F (-49 C)

That's about right for December. It's definitely nippy.

Our little heat wave last week was immediately followed by several days of fog. Many of you probably already know (or can guess) that fog does some serious shape-shifting when the mercury begins to drop, but not before wrapping itself around every conceivable surface it can find.

Recipe for a Flaky Crust?

1 part temperature (extremely cold works best) + 2 parts Heavy Fog

Mix thoroughly and allow to set.

This produces a very flaky crust that will keep for weeks and weeks.

However, avoid exposure to wind!

And, if you can't avoid it, watch your head!



It's difficult to see in photographs, but some of these lines have about three to five inches of frost surrounding them. That's a six to ten inch diameter!



Fences add an elegant variation to the recipe, don't you think?






The snow (still) piled up on the railing of my porch has acquired a layer of frosty feathers.



I guess that's it for now. Stay warm out there!

Who tinkered with the thermostat?

Friday and Saturday were blustery days full of stiff wind and lots of blowing snow, the kind of blowing snow that wreaks havoc with airline flights and deposits impassable drifts across roads and between buildings. That's always bad news for those with travel plans...or groceries on the way...or hopes of getting mail.

On the other hand, it's good news for kids of all ages who will play for days and days in those nice, deep, wintry troves of frozen fun. It's also good for those of us (who are not waiting for groceries or mail) who adore the look and feel of fresh layers of snow.

After two full days of the blustery stuff, I opened the door Sunday morning and was greeted by a wall of about four feet of snow precariously balancing on the rail around my porch (these photos were taken the next day after I'd cleared the steps and the piles had settled some).





I was also greeted by an even thicker wall of warm, moist air. Warm, moist air? Was this...June? July? August? Okay, it wasn't straight-out-of-the-shower moisture or steam bath mugginess, but 28 degrees above zero feels like a whole different season compared to -10F or even -30F!

Kids all over town spent most of Sunday building snow structures and sledding. The whine of snow machines began around 9am and still haven't ceased. Weather like this is perfect for long snow machine rides on the tundra. There is always a race to see who will be the first to tackle those powdery fresh drifts or break the trail.



The warm reprieve inspired quiet walks as well, a pleasure usually reserved for summer.



Yet, as I write, temperatures are already dropping. I suspect the air is drying too. Sub-zero will be the norm again. Then all this beautiful, silent fluff will revert back to its former state as a styrofoamy solid, squeaking with every step, making quiet walks a physical impossibility.

It's Tougher Than it Looks

Last night our temperatures warmed up about thirty degrees from -31 F (-35 C) to just below zero. As I write this, the airport instruments are showing -2.9 F (-18.8 C). That probably doesn't sound like much of a warming trend, but it makes a big difference, believe me.

Two nights ago, I took my dog out for a walk...or at least I intended to. He was certainly up for it, but about thirty feet from the building he started picking up his feet. Those of you who live in colder regions know that's a sign that it's too cold for unprotected feet. My old dog never got the hang of wearing booties, so he either has to be willing to tough it out or stay inside. When he started falling down, I helped him decide that it was too cold and quickly took him back inside.

Last night was a completely different story. At -2.9 he seemed fine outside, frisky even. He showed no sign of pain at all. Temperatures around zero just don't seem to be all that bad. I can always tell when temperatures drop to about -10 F or lower because the moisture inside my nose always begins to freeze (nice gauge, huh?).

However, this is a windy place and the windchill today has been in the negative 20's, so unprotected skin is still at risk. A couple of my students already have nasty frostbite marks on their faces. So it makes sense to dress warmly and be careful to cover up everything. That sounds simple enough, but it's not always an easy task.

Especially if you're three.

Check out one of my favorite beauties getting into her gear. Those zippers can be tricky...even for me!



By the time I walked up, she already had her inside shoes off and her snow pants on. I caught her struggle with her zipper on video (so cute). Watch her feel for the emblem on her hat. Smart girl. :)



Then Aaka helped with mittens...



...and the overcoat...and the scarf...and the boots.



Finally, if the kid is still breathing, he or she is ready to go outside!

Community Quote

“It’s all ready to go except for the guts.”


Said by an elder at church as she offered me a goose.
(Gotta love small communities!)

Flashback

A nasty bug has invaded my body and made me sick, sick, sick.

So, although there are tons of things that need doing today, I don't have the energy or motivation to move much less accomplish...anything.

This couldn't have come at a worse time (as if there is ever a good time).

Tonight there will be a (first ever) community talent show at school and I am supposed to take pictures. There will also be some guitar music that I've been looking forward to and don't want to miss.

I've heard rumors that there will be a faculty "act" and I've been warned NOT to video tape it.

So...you know what that means, right? :)

I'm hoping that this virus will run its course and I'll be feeling well enough to not only attend the talent show, but grab some photos and (of course) blackmail-worthy video too.

It should be a hoot.

In the meantime, I thought I'd share a little flashback from summer involving two of my favorite little guys who are obviously experts at making the best of a bad situation.

What do you do when your bicycle falls apart? Cry? Curse? Complain?

Let these masters of the half-full glass show you...

Big Night

So what do you do on Halloween night when temperatures are hovering around zero and you live hundreds of miles off the road system?

You make your own fun. That's what you do!

Puuqtaluk is an annual Halloween event that involves costumed dancers and a full night of silliness and laughter. For a more detailed explanation, click here.

It's difficult to appreciate the craziness of Puuqtaluk unless you experience it for yourself. The costumes can be a bit...er...off-putting if viewed out of context.



If you're not a local, it's hard to imagine just what might be lurking behind the gruesome grins.



The whole idea is to remain anonymous.



See what I mean?

But Atqasuk residents know that it's all in fun. No one relishes frightening anyone. The costumes are meant to conceal and distract from the dancer's identity and sometimes they actually pull it off.

Take this guy, for instance.



You'd never know it by looking at him, but there is a stand-up comic buried beneath all that ugly. (A very creative dancer as well). This year he won first place in his age group and then went on to compete against all age groups, including adults, to win the grand prize!

Here he is after winning for the second time that night. Awesome!



So here's the drill...

#1...a space is cleared for dancing...dancers on one side and the audience on the other.



#2...loud music is played in two-three minute segments allowing participants to dance individually as well as alongside competitors.



#3...judges judge.



#4...spectators spectate.



#5...the winner reveals his/her identity and collects a prize.



#6...everyone repeatedly watches videos of students and friends dancing their crazy dances (or am I the only one that does that?).

What a Sweet Day!

This has been an exceptionally nice day.

It began quite uncharacteristically. I woke up early and still felt great! I can't explain it. There was no good reason for it. It just happened. In spite of staying up late and not feeling well for the past week, there it was. I was awake at 6:25 a.m., without the aid of an alarm clock and didn't feel like I'd been hit by a truck or was being sucked down a gigantic drain.

Amazing!

Is this how morning people feel every day?

My dog wasn't prepared for the early start (he's not a morning person either) and continued to snooze on his bed while I made my favorite scrambled omelet, read, checked my email, and had time to do a leisurely catch-up on almost every blog that I enjoy, including a few new ones that I had never seen before.

That was huge!

It was still dark outside. Only a house or two showed signs of life. No snow machines or four-wheelers buzzing here or there. No dogs barking or kids yelling. Nothing. Just quiet and stillness and the soft glow of streetlights on freshly fallen snow.

Not long after lunch, there came an intermittent pounding on the doors of the four-plex where I live.

Trick-or-Treaters? Already? In the middle of the day?

Yep.





One after another, they kept on coming, some unknown force drawing them away from the warmth of their homes toward hands full of chocolate and Sweet Tarts and bubble gum and toys.





Eventually, I realized that this is the first Halloween that I've spent in this village that didn't fall on a school day. Even when Halloween fell on Saturday, we had Saturday school, so most of our kids are accustomed to trick-or-treating almost immediately after school. Without the confinement of school, they were free to get an early start.

And they did!

One after another, they showed up on my door step with faces sweeter than the candy in their bags.




And tonight is Puuqtaluk!

But that's another story.

Yippeeeee!

We've had blowing snow all day and it's still going strong. Drifts of snow, piles of snow, whirling, swirling flurries of snow, all creating slippery slopes perfect for sliders of all sizes.

Finally!

This is how fall is supposed to be! Frost is nice, even beautiful, but just not that much fun.

I've already heard the growl and whine of snow machines around the village. Rescued from no-snow limbo, they are free, free, freeeeee!

I guess my motor is pretty revved up too, huh?

Happy, happy, happy! I am a cold weather person!

I'm not sure, but I think the duck might even agree.

This is October?

On Friday afternoon, one of the young men in my Literature class looked out the window of our classroom and sighed, "I think we might have a brown winter."

I sighed as well and had to admit that I'd been having similar thoughts. Then we comforted each other by agreeing that certainly we'd get more snow soon, but with three snow falls come and gone, it didn't look hopeful.

The river and lake have frozen over and ice fishing has commenced, but temperatures in the mid-thirties have stolen our snow at least three times since September. One morning last week, the ground was covered with a thick layer of very slippery ice, but no snow.

Then today it snowed again, a nice thick layer, and everything looks clean and white, at least for the moment.




Many of you have asked for more information about Wanda and her progress. I haven't asked her many questions because I know she's fielded quite a few since her return, but I don't think she'd mind me giving a short update.

On the day she was rescued, Wanda was first taken to our clinic here in the village and then boarded a flight to Barrow. The hospital there checked her out and treated her feet which were suffering from 1st/2nd degree frostbite. A few days ago, she was able to return home where she is resting and healing.

At least I hope she's resting!

She didn't require surgery on her feet, but it is still painful for her to walk. Also, her fingertips are numb. Both of these are conditions that she should be able to overcome. It's just going to take some time.

I do want to thank all of you who have thought good thoughts or said prayers for her. I know she appreciates it, as do I.

And, again, I can't say enough to commend our search and rescue volunteers. They worked round the clock for five days and nights. They are a credit to this village!

A Surviving Story

I write this with trembling hands, unsure of where to begin or what to say. This is what I know.

Saturday morning our school secretary (also the mother of several of our students) packed up her sled and four-wheeler and left for a day of caribou hunting. Fall and spring are prime hunting seasons in this area and Wanda is a caribou hunter.

Wanda was taught to hunt by her father. She is an excellent shot and seldom comes home empty-handed. As a single mother, she has continued to hunt, fish, and gather subsistence foods, teaching her own children similar skills. This is what the Inupiat do. This is their way. Six days ago, Wanda began an ordinary journey that ended today with an extraordinary outcome.

She survived.

Late Saturday night, into the earliest morning hours of Sunday, one of Wanda's daughters realized that her mom should be home...and wasn't. Notifying our local search and rescue unit set an enormous effort in motion. And across the village telephone lines burned an incredible and frightening fact.

Wanda was missing.

I won't try to relay the distress that a thing like this produces. The search and rescue team, mostly unpaid volunteers, spent five nights and five days tirelessly scouring the tundra over-land while a chopper and rescue plane searched from above. A grid was mapped out, evidence was analyzed, prayers were prayed, and tears were shed.

Everyone knew all too well how the story could end. Five nights alone on the tundra, braving temperatures in the low twenties with 20-40 mile-per-hour winds seemed like too much to bear. But no one was willing to underestimate the power of a miracle or the strength of a determined Inupiat woman armed with survival skills and fueled by a will to live...for herself as well as for her children.

Yet, after so many days without a trace, brave faces were beginning to weaken. Eyes glazed over as fatigue and fear of the worst crowded in. Rumors proliferated causing spirits to soar then quickly crash against the harsh reality of truth. People of the North are not strangers to this. They have lived for centuries with the vicious bite of the elements at their heels. Death is a part of life, but not knowing is an added burden that no one can be prepared for.

Where is the line between delusion and hope? And who has the right to draw it?

Thankfully, Wanda's family and this community won't have to answer that question after all. This afternoon Wanda was found, not only alive, but in good shape. She was exhausted, sore, wind-burned, possibly a little dehydrated, but conscious and talking and walking on her own two feet.

Her survival skills had served her well and left her with a story to tell. This is what the Inupiat do. This is their way...but I'm not sure anyone expected such a powerful and beautiful end to this particular tale.

This is a surviving story. One that was lost has made her way home.

And for that...we are all incredibly grateful.

Fall Fashion

These days Nuna is sporting a distinctively autumn atikluk. Her fall fashions are among an expansive collection exclusively designed by Freezing Temperatures and North Wind Unlimited.

Fresh off the runway, her ensemble is a celebration of rich color...



... and textural interest.



Beaded accessories were provided by Days & Days of Fog who graciously added dimension to Nuna's wardrobe with countless strings of genuine H2O.



A few impressive pieces were on loan from Precipitation Factory Direct (stay tuned for their soon-to-be-released ice collection).



It's good to see that, even at her age, Nuna still enjoys a little bling.