Babies On Board

I flew to Barrow last week.

It was just for the day…out on the morning flight…back in the afternoon.

I said good-bye to a friend and hello to some much-needed groceries. It was a short trip, but a great day. Chinese food for lunch with a much-loved friend and a full fridge when I get home…how much better can it get?

While waiting for the flight back to Atqasuk, I was steadily entertained by the antics of two toddlers soon to be passengers on the same flight.





Bush planes provide passenger and freight transport, but not much else. There are no attendants distributing magazines or snacks; there is no in-flight movie to pass the time.

But…there is always the window.



And sometimes passengers put on a show without even trying.



I lucked out, having babies on board, because the passenger strapped in next to me was rather short on conversation.

Wrapping It Up

I guess it's time to wrap up this Scotland thing. Of course, I have many, many more photos. For anyone who'd like to see a few that I haven't posted here, just click on a photo and you should be directed to the Going Places folder of my Flickr account.

It's actually been snowing around here for about two days and I really don't mind at all. It keeps the dirt on the roads and out of my eyes, nose, mouth, shoes, and home. But, when I look back at my photos from Scotland, I am continually amazed by the breathtaking vibrance of spring in more temperate latitudes.

Of course, I expected to see lots of windswept trees and rolling, emerald pastures. And there were plenty of those.



And in the rural areas surrounding the coastal cities of Aberdeen and Banff, there were plenty of grazing sheep and highland cattle. Supposedly, this breed of cattle tends to be gentle in spite of the menacing appearance. I stayed on my side of the fence...just in case I misunderstood.



Some of the farms were less traditional, but equally as beautiful.



One thing I didn't expect to see was a ballet!



On our last night, a group of us attended the Scottish Ballet's production of Carmen at His Majesty's Theatre in Aberdeen.



We weren't allowed to photograph any portion of the performance, but they did give us permission to take pictures of the theatre. And it was lovely. It reminded me very much of the theatre in the movie The Illusionist.



Except that this theatre had room for an orchestra. And they were excellent!



I had almost as much fun admiring the architectural and decorative details of the space as I did the ballet.

I said almost!





Even the ceiling was a work of art!



My trip to Scotland could be loosely categorized as a teacher exchange. However, according to UK immigrationese, "teacher exchange" implies that work is taking place and work is something we were not legally allowed to do during our visit (fancy that!). So, instead of using the word exchange, we had to explain that we were visiting, observing, learning, and building relationships.

Simple enough, I know, but it definitely took more time and vocabulary.

And, except for the immigration officers, our explanation was invariably met with, "So, it's like a teacher exchange, right?" You see the problem.

My receiving this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity was basically a matter of being in the right place at the right time. Or, more accurately, having the right principal at the right time. Thank you, Becky! My principal was a part of the exchange visit last year and graciously nominated me for the trip. I was hesitant about being away from school for so many days, but I knew that I'd be sorry if I didn't jump at the chance to go.

So, I jumped!

And the whole experience turned out to be as sweet as the Sticky Toffee Pudding we feasted on almost every night.

(Except for the carrying heavy luggage up four flights of stairs part...that wasn't so sweet...but I digress.)



The name says it all, doesn't it? Sticky...toffee...pudding (pudding is the UK word for any sort of dessert)...with ice cream on the side. Yum!

It looks simple and it is--divinely simple. And well worth another trip across the ocean!

Haggis I'll Eat Anything!

Main Entry: hag·gis

Pronunciation: \ˈha-gəs\

Function:

noun

Etymology:

Middle English hagese

Date:

15th century

: a traditionally Scottish dish that consists of the heart, liver, and lungs of a sheep or a calf minced with suet, onions, oatmeal, and seasonings and boiled in the stomach of the animal.

Yeah, I'd heard about haggis long before my trip and was secretly dreading the moment when I'd actually be face-to-face, or fork-to-mouth, with the stuff. I shouldn't have been worried. Apparently, a good chef is a major factor in the whole haggis-eating experience and the chef at Musa did not disappoint. Served as an appetizer, this version of the traditional Scottish favorite was served with very tasty potatoes and parsnips.

If the physical structure housing Musa reminds you of a church, there is good reason for that. Back in the 1880's, it was known as a Catholic Apostolic Church. But, get this, in the last thirty or forty years it has been used as a banana-ripening warehouse! The word "musa" is a species name for the banana plant. (check the walls for banana-inspired artwork)

We were seated at a delightful round table in the balcony, directly in front of our own private stained-glass window. The shape of the table made conversation easy.

And our perch in the balcony insured that we wouldn't miss the excellent music in spite of a house full of other diners.

Dig the plaid hosery! She was dressed as beautifully as she played!

Scotland, Bit-by-Bit

My intentions were good, but the timing has been bad for any sort of thoughtful explanation of my trek to Scotland.  

I'm not giving up on the idea.  

It may just have to come in dribs and drabs.  

I do appreciate all the interest expressed through patiently prodding emails from those with some curiosity about the trip.

Here's a snippet, at least...

I was fascinated by this particular view from the ruins of Findlater Castle, not far from the very quaint, northern coastal village of Cullen.

Standing dangerously close to the edge of an eroding wall, I felt as if I had stumbled into the most unique (and possibly magical) place I've ever been.

And somehow that seemed completely fitting, even what I'd hoped to find.

Though the exact date of its construction is unclear, this is a depiction of Findlater Castle in its prime sometime around the thirteenth or fourteenth century.

Though only a few of the "bones" remain, there is something awe-inspiring about a structure that, having battled the elements for hundreds of years, continues to stand.  

Wind whispers between the stones...(really)

...sharing secrets with the sea.

Off Slope: Way, way off!

I've been away for almost two weeks and have lots to share.  The plan is to do some sorely needed catch-up blogging over the weekend.  But, until then, I'll give you one guess where I've been.  

I doubt that you'll need more than one!  :)

So???

Off Slope: A little work...a little play

It feels a little crazy.  

I'm sitting in a conference room in Anchorage and have actually received a mandate from the presenter to update my blog!  How amazing is that? 

An explanation is probably in order.

I am attending the ASTE conference through Wednesday.  This particular session is called Using Technology to Combat Teacher Isolation in Rural Schools.  The leader of this session is the author of Rural Water Cooler, a cool space dedicated to providing a sense of community for teachers of rural Alaska.

Our first assignment this morning was to create a Blogger blog.  A few of us already have one, so we're supposed to update!  Yahoo!

In addition to creating a blog, the presenter has also (thus far) discussed...

Wiki Spot

Skype
Moodle
Ning

Now she's onto a discussion of long-distance collaboration strategies and I can't tell you what her last four sentences were.

I guess I should refocus.

What a great day of work!

Weekend at the Beach

Some southern friends of mine spent time at the beach recently. Slightly envious, I headed for a beach of my own. The ambient temperature was in the negative thirties. I know, not exactly typical beach weather, but beautiful nonetheless. This shot was taken from the shore of the Arctic Ocean in Barrow. I spent the weekend there visiting with friends, enjoying restaurant food, and shopping in actual stores...all rare luxuries.

The whale bones and umiaq (skin boat) frames in the photo above mark the historic site of a former whaling headquarters from the days when ships had sails, whale oil burned in lamps, and whale baleen was used to make women's corsets. Today, Brower's Cafe inhabits that space. And they make a great breakfast, no corsets involved (thank goodness!).

This time of year, the moon is seldom visible (at least in Atqasuk) because of persistent cloud cover. So it was an unexpected treat to be graced with this mesmerizing, pearl-like glow throughout the entire weekend.

I've heard it said, though reports are conflicting, that Alaska consumes more ice cream per capita than any other state. Well, we must be at the top of the drive-through coffee shack list as well. These little businesses are popping up everywhere across the state and now Barrow boasts one of its own. Unfortunately, when we stopped by on the way to my flight, it was closed. Maybe next time.

Aarigaa Java...what a great name!

The visit was way too short, but the flight home was uneventful. That's a reasonable trade-off, in my book. Now my freezer is relatively full, as is my heart after precious quiet time spent with friends.

I can honestly say, it was a great weekend at the beach!

Off Slope: Heading Home

I'm sitting in a rather uncomfortable chair at Logan International in Boston. Maybe it's not such an uncomfortable chair. Maybe I've just been sitting in it too long. This is the first of four stops on my way home and I'm going to be here for a while (longer than my computer battery will hold out, I'm afraid).

At the gate across the way, a baby is screaming discontent at the top of his lungs. Three airport workers are sitting beside me, conversing in a language I do not recognize. Somewhere down the way, a dog is yipping frantically from its carrier. Behind me, a cash register is ticking away rhythmically at a coffee shop with an obscenely long line. And all around there is a web of intersecting, yet unrelated, mumbling. Everyone seems to be talking on cell phones. Actually, some appear to be talking into thin air, but I'm giving them credit for an earbud cell phone, though I can't be sure.

The contrast of this day with my last in Nova Scotia is amazing and a little jarring. Halifax was a rainy mist of gray all day and into the night...quiet, friendly, peaceful. My plan to catch another play in the park was scratched, but the disappointment was quickly forgotten when I walked into the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia.

I'd read that the home of Nova Scotia folk artist, Maud Lewis had been restored and moved into the museum. I was excited with the opportunity to see her little house as well as the museum's collection of her original artwork. I wasn't prepared for how affecting it would be.

I am embarrassed to admit that I haven't had much appreciation for folk art in the past. Mostly, it just baffled me. With images so simple and childlike, it was easy (for me) to misunderstand the real value of this art form. Having lived in Louisiana, I was aware of Clementine Hunter's folk art paintings and knew they were significant. But, the truth is, I wasn't really sure what made them so.

Learning about Maud Lewis changed that for me.

Here was a woman whose small world was full of stark extremes. Life began taking things away from her, even as a child. She lost her health, her parents, and finally her home. Considered to be an insignificant burden, it was as if she was being erased from the canvas of the living. But, unwilling to quietly disappear, Maud Lewis painted herself back in!

It was humbling to see her tiny house (less than 16 sq. meters!) adorned from top to bottom with flourishing scenes of vibrant color and cheerful composition. In spite of her circumstances, Maud retained the capacity to see and appreciate beauty in even the simplest moment or task. If her artwork appears childlike, I have to believe that's because she viewed the world through the optimistic eyes that a child would have.

I became aware of Maud Lewis when I happened across some prints in The Flight of Fancy, a beautiful shop that doubles as a gallery for a variety of intriguing and talented artists. It's located in Bear River, Nova Scotia which was on our bike route that day. In spite of my sweaty messiness, the resident artist/owner Rob Buckland-Nicks graciously took the time to answer my questions and shared enough information to truly pique my interest and encourage digging deeper. I'm so glad I stopped in!

Not only did Mr. Buckland-Nicks share his art, knowledge, and enthusiasm with me. He shared his best buddy with me as well! Without a word or move from me, this twelve-year-old sweetie quickly "assumed the position," hoping for a good scratch from an obvious dog-pushover.

My trek through Nova Scotia introduced me to a wide range of art and music. My one day at the art museum in Halifax has fueled even more questions than I had before. I was fortunate enough to see the Tom Forrestall exhibit with his unusual magic realism.

And I saw a video of a First Nations artist who sculpts with the idea that people should be able to touch the pieces he creates. Surrounded by museum placards begging visitors not to touch the artwork, the concept amazed me. I want find out more about this guy!

If you would like to know more about Maud Lewis or folk art in general, this site is a great resource as well.

Off Slope: Bike Trip Update 4

Here's a glimpse of one of the non-biking experiences from the Evangeline Trail.  We rode our bikes down to a little village called Tiddville, ferried across the harbor, and met Captain Tom for a blast across the ocean on his Zodiac.

These lovely suits doubled as protection from wind/water AND flotation devices.  We all felt like we were embarking on a mission to outer space!

Our actual mission was a search for whales...always an exciting proposition.  Can't you see the anticipation on fellow-cyclist Greg's face?  I snapped this shot literally moments before he stripped off his hat and plunged his head over the side of the Zodiac and into the icy ocean water.  

Have I mentioned lately that I find boys (even big ones) fascinating?

Our search was rewarded almost immediately.  After sighting a few porpoises and seals, Captain Tom zeroed in on two humpbacks, a cow and calf, peacefully "grazing" on krill (although he did say that the calf might have still been nursing).

(click on this photo to see larger views of any of the pictures on this page)

Here's a short clip from our whale watch.  You may want to medicate yourself with some Dramamine before viewing...it's not easy to hold a camera steady with waves sloshing to and fro.

The humpbacks were amazing...so graceful and at ease in the sea.  Having done a few whale tours in previous years, I was extremely impressed with Captain Tom and his craft in that the impact on the whales seemed to be minimal.  At one point, the calf rolled and floated on the surface waiting for its mother to return from a dive.  It didn't appear to be bothered by our presence at all.

It was impossible to watch them without being touched by their gentle magnificence.  

Just as the roadside sign had promised, it truly was a "Cousteau-esque" experience!

Off Slope: Bike Trip Update 3

For those who are wondering what the hills are like, well...

There are steep spikes.

And long slow climbs.

And some that are basically hikes with a bicycle at your side.

But the view from the top can be an amazing payoff.

(Note: This is the only photo directly linked to my Flickr account. If you'd like to see larger versions of any photo from this post, just click on the final photo ABOVE. That will bring you to my most recent uploads.)

Today was the last day of the Cabot Trail trip. Tomorrow begins the Evangeline Trail. Tonight I'm spending a quiet evening on my own in Halifax. I'm staying in the elegantly cozy Haliburton House Inn located in the historic district, very near the water.  It's wonderful.

After the happy discovery of a coin laundry down the street (aaah! clean clothes!), I had a wonderful dinner including crab and shrimp cakes. Then I attended a Shakespeare-by-the-Sea production of A Midsummer Night's Dream in Point Pleasant Park. It was hilarious! I think The Bard would have been proud of this version.

Just outside the park gate there was a little corner grocery where I treated myself to two scoops of Raspberry Cream Cheese ice cream on a cone. It made the walk back in the cool salty breeze a little sweeter.

So, for those who might be worried, I am fitting in some light-hearted experiences between the hills. And there is a rumor that the Evangeline Trail is a kinder, gentler sort of trip.

I feel fairly prepared either way.